Tokyo doesn’t sleep, but it does change costumes. The city you experience at noon — efficient, polite, architecturally ambitious — bears little resemblance to the…
On the morning I left Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, a French Basque village at the foot of the Pyrenees, I weighed my backpack three times. 8.4 kilograms. By…
Tokyo doesn’t sleep. It just changes costumes. The buttoned-up business city of daylight hours transforms after dark into something wilder, weirder, and infinitely more interesting….